Take a hike along jagged peaks and through lush forests. Swim beneath waterfalls, or in azure seas on a deserted sandy beach... Camp beneath the moon and stars on a cloudless night, waking up to a beautiful sunrise...
 |
| Tai Long Wan, Sai Kung |
... Bathe in the warmth of the evening sun while sipping wine from the bottle, legs dangling into a natural infinity pool overlooking wild valleys...
 |
| Shui Lo Cho Pools, Lantau |
... Take to the hills, stretch the legs and discover waterfalls. Among other things avoid feral cattle (!) and stray dogs (seriously!), stick to the path (don't), and remember drugs are illegal (they are...)
 |
| Lion Rock Country Park |
This is no back packer hangout in South-East Asia, all this can be done in one of the most densely populated cities on Earth. Welcome to Hong Kong.
I am in Kowloon (九龍), Hong Kong. The name (9 Dragons) represents the eight mountain peaks that surround this urban metropolis. The ninth dragon, incidentally, refers to Emperor Bing, the last Emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty of China, who was enthroned in this very region 800 years ago. Beyond these peaks, and beyond the architectural playground of Hong Kong Island, is a Hong Kong many people do not know exists.
Discover cosy fishing villages, sheltered bays, rivers and beaches that abound in the extensive countryside of the New Territories. 200 Outlying Islands provide residents and visitors with boundless opportunities for exploring, Lantau being the biggest. Less than 25% of Hong Kong's territorial landmass is developed as much of the area is hilly and mountainous thus tricky to build much on. The remaining land consists of countryside, 60% of which is reserved for country parks and nature reserves such as Sai Kung and Lantau country parks. Combine this with the ease in which local travel is possible using public transport, and Hong Kong becomes not only a playground for architects and city slickers on the hunt for a good-looking... mojito, but a playground for you and me as well.
 |
| It's a hard life on Dragon's Back Ridge |
Here are some of our favourite spots for walking, climbing, swimming and chilling out:
Dragon's Back - Shek-O Beach
A rightly popular and rewarding hike along the mountain ridge of Hong Kong Island. Views of the shining metropolis on one side are nicely contrasted with views of islets, beaches and grassland on the other. Depending on how far you want to walk you can pick up the trail anywhere along Shek-O Road or Tai Tam Road if you want to take in Tai Tam reservoirs as well.
Aside from the beautiful scenery the real reward on a hot day is reaching Shek-O village, a laid-back beach town where dodgy mini-golf (can someone please sort that out?!), a cold beer, a refreshing dip in the ocean, and fresh Thai food awaits the weary traveller. The whole trip will set you back about the same price as a cocktail in Soho so there's no excuses. And you can stay as long as you like...
Tai Long Wan
Any nature-loving Hong Kong dweller will tell you that this is the place to go if you really want to escape the city. After a taxi or bus ride from Sai Kung Town the 2 hour hike takes you through forests, along a gorgeous coastline and past the tiny hamlet of Sai Wan where friendly feral cattle roam free and life is good.
 |
| The walk from Sai Wan pavillion to Tai Long Wan |
Beyond this first beach and over the headland you will find Tai Long Wan. Explore a little, seek out the waterfalls further up stream, camp overnight, drink a bottle of rum, build yourselves a fire and pass the time away as if you are a million miles from the city.
 |
| Tai Long Wan |
It truly is a beautiful place, and here's hoping that developers continue to stay away from this relatively untouched place of beauty for the foreseeable future. The intrepid amongst us have ventured to the next bay (see picture) which is equally, if not more stunning for its remoteness, but lacks basic necessities for over-night camping such as tent hire, cooked food and cold beer.
After your brief but unforgettable experience starts coming to an end For the weary, bleary eyed sailor, a boat will even come and pick you up the next day and take you back to Sai Kung. An adventure in itself, especially when the waters are rough.
Shui Lo Cho Pools, Lantau
Whisperings of a natural infinity pool can often be heard amongst the wild-seeking community of Hong Kong. That's not a bad find considering the cost of the rooftop pools of the infinity variety in some of the city's smartest (and most expensive) hotels. From a stop along Tai O road, 10 of us got off the bus.
After 2 hours hiking up and down mountains we finally came to a sign: Shui Lo Cho (12km, 3hrs). Leaving the weak behind, 5 of us ploughed on ahead. Wine bottles weighing us down, there was no time to lose. This approach is long, but well worth it. The hike takes up, down, round and through the valleys of Lantau's wild south.
There are some pretty sketchy parts to this route so for those seeking an easier, and much faster route start in the village of Tai O. From here walk south along the coast until you reach a short pier. Have a rest. There should be a path leading up the valley to your left, it takes your past an old abandoned house that's definitely haunted and leads you up towards the pools after about 30 minutes walking.
 |
| Or you can take the hard way, which is way more cool. |
 |
| Nature's infinity pool |
Lion Rock Country Park
Lion Rock country park is easily accessible from Kowloon Tong, or Lok Fu MTR stations. It's a relatively easy walk, and can take you the best part of a late-afternoon. Ideal if you finish work early, or have other things to do in the day. The views of the city from the top are stunning and Hong Kong looks like a toy town as you look across. It's amazing to think that there could be as many as 5 million people going about their lives in your view:
 |
Head west and you will reach Beacon Hill, which offers similar views and an unobstructed sunset.
 |
| Victoria Harbour and the Lantau Link from Beacon Hill |
South Bay
South Bay on Hong Kong Island gets a mention here for being the only beach on the island where the evening sun sets on the horizon. Best enjoyed with friends or someone special if you are the romantic sort.
What else?
Around Tai Po Market:
Kadoorie Farm and Botanical Garden
Kadoorie Farm and Botanical Garden
Located in the foothills of Hong Kong's tallest mountain, Ma On Shan, Kadoorie Farm and Botanical Garden is a great day out and has a rich history of environmental conservation.
Entry is free and there are plenty of things to do and see, there are also nearby hiking trails. Check it out.
Plover Cover, Mirror Pool & Brides Pool
Tai Po Market is the nearest MTR station. Beyond Tai Po Market you can find Plover Cove, a great destination for cyclists and those looking for traditional Hong Kong villages. Waterfall seekers won't be disappointed by Mirror Pool and Brides Pool, especially during rainy season, which can be found a short (30min) bike ride away. See here for more.
Clear Water Bay
Best reached by hiring a junk-boat for the day. There are hiking trials and mountain bike trails in the area.
Can be crowded on weekends but still pleasant for a stroll... and a swing...
For sunset...
 |
| Typhoon Shelter, Victoria Harbour (MTR Olympic Station) |
 |
| Typhoon Shelter, Dockyard |
 |
| Shui Lo Sho Pools, Near Tai O |
 |
| Tai Mei Tuk, Tai Po Market |
 |
| South Bay, Hong Kong Island |
 |
| Pak Tam, Sai Kung |
 |
| Lion Rock Country Park |
 |
| Beacon Hill |
Want to know more?
The internet is great. There are many blogs and sites to show you the way to some special places in Hong Kong. My favourite is HK Outdoors - focused on enjoying and protecting the wild places of Hong Kong. The site provides lots of practical information on how to get to these wild places such as maps and bus routes as well as offering commentary local environmental issues. Big up Martin Williams
Words: Adam Darell
Photography: Charlotte Lamy, Adam Darell and Ellysa Vardy
No comments:
Post a Comment