Taiwan Full Circle

It is no coincidence that the island of Taiwan has another name, Ihla Formosa. It literally means 'beautiful island'. This is what the early Portuguese settlers cried in way back 1544 when they first caught sight of the island from their ships. They weren't too far wrong in their observations.

An ancient land bridge joined Taiwan with the Asian mainland until the sea levels rose 10,000 years ago, and one argument goes that much of the Austronesian languages of the Pacific have roots here in the language of the aboriginals. Since then the island has seen a wealth of visitors from the high seas, some friendly others not so much. Some came and went, while others stayed for the long haul. The Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, Chinese, and Japanese have all called this place home at one time or another. Now the country has reached some stability and the Taiwanese people are as proud to call their country home as they are to show it off to others. For the traveller, this means you will be met by a diverse and infinitely hospitable bunch of people who will share with you their stories, culture, food and love of this beautiful island.

A member of the Saisiat Tribe

Here I hope to show a little bit of what Taiwan has been like through my eyes and of those around me during our time studying, travelling and being part of the place. I will take you on a brief but full circle of this beautiful island, touching upon some of the places, people and things that make it so special.

Taipei and around

My first visit to the capital gave insight into the cosmopolitan side of Taiwan. Taipei has got something for every kind of visitor. Historic temples, museums and night markets competed for our attention alongside a distinct cafe-culture, gentrified riverside bars, and some of East Asia's best nightclubs playing everything from punk and metal through to the latest French and European Nu-Disco. The people are as beautiful as the landscapes and natural scenery that surround the city, and transport is quick and easy. As with Taiwan in general, I am often surprised that this place gets left off many peoples itineraries to Asia, because it's awesome.

We visited the National Museum, home to ancient Chinese artefacts that Beijing wants back. There are displays that map the powers that have at various points colonised Taiwan, while Aboriginal culture has a museum of it's own next door at the Sung Ye Museum of Aborigines. Beware the hordes of Chinese tourists (大陆人). One minute you will be appreciating a fine work of Chinese art and the next you will be swept from your feet as yet another tour group are squeezed through the rooms from exhibition to exhibition as if by osmosis.

We got back in the evening in time for some tasty street food at a local night-market, before going to kill it on the dance floor at Luxy, or Sparx, or was it Babe 18...? Either way, when in Taipei get ready for a night of debauchery on the dance-floors of Taipei's notorious nightclubs.

During my second trip to Taipei I was eager to seek out some natural scenery and enjoy some hiking. There are some nice city-hikes near Taipei Zoo, catch the Mao Kong Gondola up into the mountains. The area was once upon a time THE place for growing tea for Taipei residents. There are some nice trails meandering through hills which offer great views of the city. Old tea houses serve freshly brewed cups of the local tea and cafés provide the usual mix of quality coffee and cold European beer.

Getting out to the local national park, Yangmingshan, is easy. The forested mountains provide cool relief from the city in warmer months. On sunnier days the views are incredible, and all year round you can get a sense of being in the wild just a short ride away from the city.

About an hour or so out of the city is a place called Jiufen (九份), we caught the bus from the city centre so it's easily accessible. Jiufen is an old gold-mining mountain village overlooking the sea. It retains a lot of its traditional charm in it's buildings and market places as well as offering climbers dramatic views of Taiwan's northern coast and out towards the Pacific ocean.

Kaohsiung

The place I have called home for the last 3 months used to be the industrial heart of this country. While still home to huge industrial zones, they are fast moving to the outskirts of the city. The spaces left behind have created a burgeoning art scene and new areas of the city are fast developing into chic modern residential areas that overlook landscaped parks.

Learning Chinese here has been a wonderful experience, and the people of southern Taiwan are some of the friendliest I have come across. That is no exaggeration. A few classmates and I were immediately welcomed into the local University football team (where coach treated us to food and beers on several occasions), our teachers would take us to eat piles of seafood for lunch on Qijin Island, musicians would gather at the little amphitheatre behind Family Mart, and the atmosphere in this corner of town has also been one of warmth, kindness and generosity.

As well as the usual tourist spots (Lotus Pond, Qijin Island, Liuhe Night-market, 85 Tower) I would urge you to seek out some more unusual places. The areas around Yangchengpu and Sizihwan have plenty of history, natural attractions and local flavour. A once bustling port complete with 'Go-Go Bars', a railway station, and dozens of warehouses has now given way to a myriad of new and exciting opportunities for the area, and a few old remnants still remain. The old railway line that used to serve the Sizihwan port area has long been closed and in it's place a beautiful park has sprung up, and a walking and cycling track has replaced the old train tracks. It winds it's way from the chic district of Aozhidi through the park and then on past the Pier 2 Art District, home to modern art sculptures, live music, bars and galleries.

A couple walk past the abandoned warehouses and 'floating restaurants' - remnants of Sizihwan's bustling port

The bike lane along Pier 2 Art District

Sculptures at Pier 2

The old warehouses and waterfront setting provide the perfect backdrop for artists to showcase their work

The buildings now home to the artists and their work were once warehouses and factories serving the busy port.

From here the track follows the line of the harbour and over a pedestrian bridge that crosses Love River, a once industrial cesspit that has now been transformed into one the city's flagship attractions. Now firework shows light up the sky at night and romantic cruises in 'Love Boats' depart from 'Love Pier' on a regular basis. Cute.

My favourite spot however, has been the area around and along the coast to the north from Zhongshan University, where I was studying. Shoushan Country Park takes its name from the sizeable population of Formosan Rock Macaques who inhabit the area, popular with tourists and notorious for raiding the ready available treats inside the local student dormitories.

The Macaques would leave a trail of destruction in the dormitories of unsuspecting students

Many hiking trails can be found in the mountain behind the University campus - go get lost!

The Formosan Rock Macaque

From the University a road takes you up the coast to a small fishing village which is a popular haunt at weekends for it's beautiful sunsets, laid-back atmosphere, and seaside cafes and restaurants. Small paths can be found leading from the road down to unspoilt beaches.

'Secret Beach'

The view from our dormitory rooftop across the University campus and towards Qijin Island

Sunset at the local fishing village

Down by the waterfront a local artist has built a small cafe using carved pieces of driftwood. His calligraphy and art decorate the interior while over the blues records being played from speakers by the book shelf, he will serve delicious mountain tea to the traveller lucky enough to find him. The sunsets from the village are routinely breathtaking.

Kaohsiung has all the makings of a city - it is a city - but the pace of life and generosity and warmth of the people make it feel like a trip to a distant village where no one is a stranger. A trip is well worth the visit, especially if you are happening on down to the golden sands and fun to be had in Kenting further south.

Kenting

Famous for its white sands and annual Spring Scream music festival, Kenting attracts tourists looking for fun in the sun. Water sports dominate while horse-riding, go-karting and paragliding are also popular. On this trip down my room mate and I decided to cycle from where we were in Kaohsiung, the whole trip took around 9 hours over two days. Cycling is huge here, and many regard the island as the top cycling destination in Asia. Many groups we passed were doing the 'full circle' - circumnavigating the island on bike which usually takes a week. For those with less time, buses to Kenting run regularly from the main cities and the closest train station is Fangliao.

Cycling is hugely popular in Taiwan, and people from all over the world come here to cycle around the whole Island!

The road to Kenting

After a long bike ride, the crystal clear waters of Kenting were most welcome

A protected marine reserve in Kenting

Camp beneath the stars, bring a tent, stay at youth hostels or one try of the new crop of fanciful Bed & Breakfast joints that have popped up all along the coast. Go surfing, cycling, horse riding, paragliding or laze by the beach with a cold beer and watch the world go by (in Taiwan it moves pretty slowly so you may need another beer).

Taitung

Visiting Taitung we rented a scooter and stayed in Dulan, a village north of the city home to a big arts community and with strong ties to the local aboriginal cultures. The local Sugar factory that was once abandoned is now home to local artists doing their stuff and galleries showcasing their talent. The Dulan Cafe is the place for a beer in the evenings and hosts live music at the weekends. By day you can take to the mountains or surf at the local beach. Stay at the beautifully looked after 'Groundnut Backpacker Hostel'. Jay Ting - the owner - hand-crafted the furniture inside, the music is always great and the kitchen is ready for whatever you feel like cooking and sharing. It really feels like a home away from home, and the views from the rooftop room are stunning.

Looking in - Taitung's mountainous interior

The backpacking scene amongst young people in Taiwan is growing, as is environmental and social awareness, and the owners really feel like they are part of this growth with cheap accommodation for young travellers and a service that offers advice on places to see and things to eat. They also run a small barbecue joint by the Sugar Factory.

Views from the mountains down to the coast where waves roll in off the Pacific Ocean

Taitung County is perhaps Taiwans most unspoiled area, as a result, there are some great opportunities to see a rich natural environment, aboriginal communities, and a city of peaceful people in tune to their surroundings. A US policeman came on an exchange programme here and was shocked to find out that while a quarter of a million people live here, there hasn't been a murder since 2005.

Hualien, Taroko National Park

Hualien is home to Taiwan's most dramatic landscapes, Taroko Gorge. The city itself is pleasant and the coastal area worth a visit but really it's all about the towering mountains a 30 minute ride north-west from here.

Shakadang Valley, like a scene out of Jurassic Park

Taroko means "magnificent and beautiful" in the local indigenous Truku language. The story goes that long ago a Truku tribesman emerged from the gorge and was hit by the beauty of the landscape looking out towards the blue Pacific ocean. 'Taroko!' he cried. The mountainous interior of Taroko was once fairly brutal and inhospitable territory full of warring tribes and wild animals. The sight of the ocean really would have been a relief! Now however, it is the interior that draws the crowds to it's crystal blue rivers, waterfalls, and hiking trails.

The emerald-blue waters of Taroko's rivers

Birds, reptiles and insects live here in staggering numbers (251 species of butterflies alone!). Deer, boar and bear also call this place home alongside indigenous Taiwanese tribes that have been here for centuries.

Heading in from the coast along Highway 8 elevation climbs from sea level to 3000 meters in the blink of an eye. Narrow sections of the slot canyons rise over 1000 feet above you as you navigate the winding roads and after 60 km of driving you are cruising along the highest road in Taiwan at Wuling (3275 meters).

The best way to wind your way through the gorge is on motorbike

Many of the trails in the area, as well as being uniquely stunning, have some historical significance as they were originally trade and hunting routes carved out of the mountains by Aboriginals and later on by the Japanese. The toughest routes involve some pretty sketchy cliff-hugging hiking while others are easier to navigate. Along the Shakadang Trail and Baiyang Waterfall Trail we saw babies in pushchairs and the elderly taking strolls along the paths that lead you through breathtaking views and unforgettable scenery.

Baiyang Waterfall Trail

The Japanese carved away impossible trails into the steep cliffs, and suspension bridges to cross them

Camping is free at a number of sites and there are a few upmarket hotels and bed and breakfasts that can also be found within the boundaries of the park.  At least 10 hiking trails of varying difficulties can be accessed from the main road all which are marked on the local tourist map. Avoid going on weekends for a more peaceful visit where Tour buses aren't clogging up the roads, and get off the beaten track for more raw nature. Check the website for more details. Or try THIS ONE for much more information about the wild places in Taiwan.

Hundreds of rivers through Taroko's valleys

Over 250 species of butterfly can be found in Taroko

Setting up camp in the heart of Taroko Gorge

A morning swim in the freezing but beautifully clear rivers

Going Beyond - hitch hike

From Hualien it's either back north to Taipei for your flight home, or into the wild. Taiwan's notoriously mountainous interior has been a tough nut to crack for the even bravest adventurers and hardiest warlords. No longer. Two cross-island highways, village roads and hiking trails now connect to afford visitors and locals the chance to reach the once unreachable wilderness.

By car, bus or motorbike you can cross the highest pass in Taiwan from Taroko Gorge and head down through Nantou to the beautiful Sun Moon Lake and on towards Yu Shan (Taiwan's highest mountain - 3952m) and Ali Shan National Park.

We hitch hiked the whole thing back to Kaohsiung. It was an incredible experience on which we were able to practise our limited Chinese and get to know a few of the people along the way. We never waited more than 20 minutes for a ride, usually it was one of the first cars to pass us by that stopped to offer a ride or help with directions. The incredible thing was that those offering lifts would say, every time, "that's funny, we've never picked up a hitch hiker before!" Another illustration of the warmth and hospitality of the Taiwanese.

Our first ride out of Taroko was on the back of this truck

First, we got a lift on the back of a truck out of Hualien. the driver kindly telling us how far he can take us by pointing at our map before giving us a couple of ice cold water bottles. He then proceeded to take us on a roller coaster ride through some of Taiwan's deepest gorges and stunning landscapes at high speeds, aided by the strong stimulant released by chewing on the Areca Nut, a staple of many a long-haul driver in the Far East. Passing along Taiwan's highest road at Hehuanshan on the back of a truck was quite an experience and affords the traveller some serious dramatic view of the surrounding moutainscapes:

Grinning from the front seat, he called for us to sit down in the back. Four hours of bumps, twists and turns later and my companion was filling a large plastic bag with the mornings breakfast. Nice. We reached the town of Puli and took an hour to gather ourselves.

Back on the road, a Mercedes-driving estate agent bought us beer and bus tickets from Puli to Sun Moon Lake, the largest body of water in Taiwan and one of it's biggest tourist attractions. The east side of the lake forms the shape of the sun, while the west resembles the moon.

Sun Moon Lake

It started raining as we were walking out of town along the main road, pretty soon a friendly couple picked us up and we had the familiar conversation of 'what are you doing?', 'Oh we've never picked up hitch hikers before!' Our escorts always warmed to us once we explained ourselves and they realised that we were not mad. In poor Chinese we would say, "women xihuan da bian che, yinwei women keyi gen Taiwan ren lianxi shuohua he lianxi Zhongwen" (we like hithhiking because we can practice our Chinese with Taiwanese people!), and that seemed to do the trick. Smiling, they drove us on and up to the road leading to Alishan National Park, stopping to buy us as much red bean cake as we could stuff into our hungry mouths.

The Taiwanese are hospitable, kind and generous. 

After being told by our 4th lift of the day that it was too late to drive to Ali Shan, a car pulled up and asked us where we were going. The couple, on their honeymoon, took us for supper at a famous mountain village restaurant and on to Ali Shan, where they haggled with the park authorities to let us camp and sleep outside (the only other accommodation available were expensive resorts).

5 hours later we were up watching the sun rise over the national park before taking a walk through the enchanting forests that surround the area. Unprepared as we were for the freezing mountain temperatures we were quite a sight for the Chinese tourists as we huddled together in our shorts, T-shirts, and sleeping bags:

Sunrise at Alishan National Park

That day we took lifts with various people, all locals in the area, and we slowly made it down the mountain range and into the city of Chiayi. The city isn't the best place to hitch a lift from, it breeds busyness and the notion that we have no time to stop and go out of our way for strangers. So after 45 minutes of walking along the road in the direction of the highway we were most relieved when a car finally came to our aide.

Our saviour had just finished his shift as a city school-bus driver and was heading home. Having managed to communicate that we wished to get on to the highway, we were on our way. And then kept going. "Where are you going to drop us off?" I ask. "Where do you want to go?" "Kaohsiung, eventually, but really just leave us anywhere convenient." "Oh don't worry. I'm a bus driver. I like driving. Besides, all my friends are at work, what's the point in going home now?" And that was that. An off-shift bus driver happily drove us the 100-plus kilometers to get us home, and then made his way back after a parting 7-11 beer and a photo.  

Where next?

There is so much more to explore in Taiwan, you can go back again and again and always find something new to excite and somewhere new to explore, and people to share it with you. The Taiwanese are proud, friendly, humble, laid back, open, curious, respectful, and a lot of fun. Get in touch for recommendations and local contacts if you plan to travel!